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Over two thousand years ago, Mumbai was an archipelago
of seven islands, inhabited by the kolis. These tribal
fisherfolk still live here in tightly knit communities
that the passing centuries have scarcely touched. The
best place to see them is in the 600-year-old Worli Fishing
Village that stands on a sliver of land jutting into the
sea. Plunge into one of its winding gullies and you will
instantly be assailed by the smell of drying fish, and
colourful koli women, their dark skins offset by chunky
tribal jewellery. At the end of the village is a small
Portuguese fort with remnants of an old armoury, soldiers'
barracks and thick ramparts. Before the Raj, when Portugal
ruled Mumbai, this was a strategic vantage point to counter
attacks from the sea.
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